Exploring Colli Friuli: A Journey Through Vineyards and History
By Louen Tang
With a few days to spare before Vinitaly, I embarked on an adventure to the renowned wine region of Colli Friuli, exploring it on foot. My journey began in Cividale del Friuli, a town steeped in history. Once the forum of Julius Caesar, it later became the capital of the Lombard Kingdom during the Byzantine Empire and the Patriarchal State of Friuli in 1077. This rich historical backdrop made it the perfect starting point for my walk.
Alpe Adria Trail
Spring in Friuli is an ideal time for hiking. The temperatures are cool, flowers are blooming, and the vines are just beginning to bud. However, this season also means fewer accommodations and restaurants are open, necessitating careful planning and communication. The upside? I often found myself the sole guest, enjoying an exclusive experience.
The Alpe Adria Trail spans 750 km, connecting Carinthia (Austria), Slovenia, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia (Italy). Due to time constraints, I opted for a 44 km loop hike over three days, from Friuli to Slovenia and back, focusing on the vineyard-dotted sections I couldn't resist.
Day 1: Friuli to Prepotto
On a sunny day, I reached Prepotto in about three hours. The landscape, with its southeast-facing slopes, is perfect for vineyards. I stayed at Grillo Iole, a winery guesthouse. Mattia, the winemaker, explained that their vineyards on Prepotto's best slopes produce Schioppettino, a unique red wine with red fruit and pepper notes. Limited production means it's rarely found overseas. Their white wines, including Sauvignon, Friulano, and Ribolla Gialla, were equally impressive. I dined at Pesce fuor D'AQA, a seafood restaurant, enjoying fresh mussels and fish paired with sparkling Ribolla Gialla.
Day 2: Prepotto to Slovenia
The second day was challenging, with a 30 km hike taking nearly seven hours and involving 900 meters of ascent and descent. This scenic route included vineyards, cherry blossom-dotted farmlands, villages, and towns, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Alps. Despite the long walk, the breathtaking scenery made it worthwhile.
As I trekked through the picturesque landscapes, I couldn't help but marvel at the harmony between nature and human cultivation. The cherry blossoms added a touch of color to the verdant fields, and the quaint villages seemed to be frozen in time, offering a glimpse into the region's rich cultural heritage. Each step brought new vistas, from rolling hills to majestic mountain views, making the journey an unforgettable experience.
Day 3: Slovenia to Friuli
The final day was more relaxed, with a four-hour hike back to Friuli. I stopped at Scurek, a family-run winery, for a tasting. Their low-intervention winemaking approach allows the terroir to shine through, provided the grape quality is high. After a sunny hike, their no-dosage sparkling wine was refreshing, and the natural (orange) wine was approachable.
Reflections on the Journey
Though I only covered a small portion of the trail, I glimpsed its diverse offerings. The Austrian mountains and Italian coastal sections promise different experiences. With delightful food, excellent wine, and stunning scenery, what more could one ask for?
Reflecting on my journey, I realized that the Alpe Adria Trail is more than just a hiking route; it's a cultural and sensory exploration. Each region along the trail offers its own unique charm, from the alpine beauty of Carinthia to the coastal allure of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The trail weaves together the natural splendor and historical richness of these regions, creating a tapestry of experiences that cater to both the adventurous spirit and the connoisseur of fine wine and cuisine.
Practical Tips for Future Travelers
For those considering a similar adventure, here are a few practical tips:
- Plan Ahead: Given the limited availability of accommodations and restaurants especially in the spring, it's crucial to book your stays and meals in advance. This ensures a smooth and enjoyable journey.
- Pack Light but Smart: Bring essentials like comfortable hiking shoes, weather-appropriate clothing, and a good map. Don't forget a reusable water bottle and some snacks for the trail.
- Embrace the Local Culture: Take the time to interact with locals and learn about their traditions and way of life (or wine). This adds depth to your travel experience and creates lasting memories.
- Savor the Moments: Whether it's a breathtaking view, a delicious meal, or a quiet moment of reflection, savor each experience. The journey is as much about the small joys as it is about the grand adventures.
In conclusion, my hike through Colli Friuli was a delightful blend of history, nature, and gastronomy. It offered a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, allowing me to reconnect with nature and immerse myself in the rich cultural heritage of the region. If you're looking for a unique and enriching
