Empire of Penguins

By James Durston

Few experiences implant themselves in the memory of better than a wildlife excursion to Antarctica.

“Summing up a continent twice the size of Australia tricky,” says Chris Dwyer, a travel writer who recently took a cruise to the icy continent to celebrate his 50th birthday. “The utterly pristine natural beauty on an epic, cinematic scale, was often impossible to take in.”

Penguins are plentiful, as well as “stinky, cranky, and hilarious in equal measure,” says Dwyer. While they can be spotted throughout Antarctica, Snow Hill Island in the Weddell Sea offers relatively accessible viewing of its emperor penguins’ colony.

During Antarctica summer, from December to March, Humpback whales breach the ocean surface daily for splashy spectacles in the waters around the Antarctic Peninsula, especially Wilhelmina Bay. This is when the Southern Ocean fills with nutrient-rich krill, drawing humpbacks within metres of boat – along with orcas, minke whales, and even blue whales.

Seals are also among Antarctica’s most visible residents. While only six of the world’s 34 seal species live in Antarctica, they make up most of the global seal population in sheer numbers. Weddell seals are often spotted with their pups during the November to March visiting season, alongside Antarctic fur seal, leopard seals, Ross seals, southern elephant seals, and crabeater seals. With no innate fear of humans, these seals are easy to approach for close encounters – though visitors must always take care not to disturb them. For birdwatchers, giant petrels and albatrosses are among the most spectacular finds, particularly around Drake Passage and South Georgia, while sooty shearwaters, blue-eyed shags, sheathbills, and skua patrol the Southern Ocean and the west side of the Antarctica Peninsula. 

Making the most of it

Single-day trips by plane from Punta Arenas, Chile, or Cape Town, South Africa, offer the simplest way to see these icons of the Antarctic. But to truly absorb the majesty of this continent and variety of the wildlife, you’ll need a multi-night cruise. 

Silversea operates several dozen cruises each season and includes immersive experiences – Zodiac boat rides to see humpbacks, kayaking among icebergs, and guided hikes across the wildlands – all led by an expedition team that includes marine biologists, climatologists and other experts to provide top quality information alongside the viewing. National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions offer fewer five-star creature comforts, but their unparalleled wildlife expertise makes them the top choice for photographers to ensure your pics hit the mark. And Quark Expeditions is a polar specialist, offering up to 20-day trips on smaller ships to access remote areas the larger vessels cannot reach.

Whichever experience you choose, the time in this part of the world – one of the last wild frontiers on the planet – will be sure to leave you thrumming with excitement.